Day four: The route of food and drink

An important lesson for anyone is that some of the least suspicious people are sometimes the most business savvy.

I awoke in my farmer’s field of a campsite this morning and set about paying the bill.

In the main farmhouse, I found an old lady who must have been approaching 80, with possibly the worst chesty cough I have ever encountered. On totalling up the components of my bill, it came to 3,50 euros.

With the thought that she needed some cough medicine (and overlooking the exceptionally large farmhouse) I insisted she take 5 euros.

My next question was: “so please can I have the key to the shower room?”

“Two euros,” which she took without a second’s thought for my generosity of not 30 seconds earlier. And the shower was cold.

Route de Cider

I started the day with two croissants and an orange juice, which has become customary already, and sat in the centre of Cambremer planning my day’s route.

After a quick wander round the local market, I set off along the Route de Cider – winding hills of apple orchards and the odd cidre farm. I stopped off at one farm where I was treated to a twenty minute video on cider production in French, a quick tour and a taste of the local brew.

Despite the hog roasting in the corner of the garden, I was the only visitor. With a small bottle of cider in my bag, I set off on my way once more.

I continued along the guide book route (making every thing twice as far as it needs to be), struggling on the hills that the book insisted did not exist. It was a nice ride with lots of lovely views.

But it wouldn’t be keeping within the spirit of my trip if there wasn’t one shocking moment and this journey was no different.

I saw a snake. It slithered across my path, less than a metre in front of my tyre. I don’t know why something needs to come and scare me everyday, but it really isn’t necessary. The thought of it was making me shudder for hours afterwards.

My only other stop before Liseux (bar mid-hill stops) was at a grand châteaux. I took the guided tour in French so subsequently can share very little other than it looked nice.

Liseux – the city that always sleeps

I arrived in Liseux at about 5pm with one priority – a massive burger. But there was absolutely nothing open. Feeling disgruntled, I was going to cast Liseux aside and leave immediately.

But just as I was about to do so I came across possibly the most striking basilica I have ever seen, sitting on the top of (another) hill overlooking the city. It was majestic.

I climbed over pigeons nests to get to the top of the dome and looked out over the surrounding area. You could see for miles.

I finished up by heading to the station to get a train to Caen, but at the last minute decided I would keep going all the way to Bayeux. From there I could cycle around the D-Day beaches as well as see that famous piece of needlework.

Arriving in Bayeux

Do you ever get those moments when you think someone is up there looking down on you? Well after a few motorway moments that made me question if I was being ignored along with the sighting of a snake, I experienced one of these moments on arriving in Bayeux.

Still starving, I rode towards the campsite on the outskirts of Bayeux when I saw the golden arches. It was like a divine intervention on what would be my home for the night.

You’ve never seen a tent go up so fast. I was out there within minutes. My only regret is that I didn’t have two more cheeseburgers.